Prøva

HOW IT WORKS

Everything Prøva does, from the first question to the last session.

The home page is the short version. This is the long one, for when you want to know how the plan is made and what it does when things change.

1Your goal, in blocks

Pick what you’re training for, and a date if there is one. The plan runs base, strength, power and performance, with a lighter week between blocks, so you arrive at the goal fresh.

  • Bouldering, sport, comps or a trip
  • A date holds: a missed week comes out of a later block, never the taper
  • Start today or next Monday; weeks run Monday to Sunday
Choosing what you’re training for: boulder harder, sport projects, comp season, a trip or project date, all-round, or getting started.

2A week around where and when you climb

Tell Prøva your places (a wall, a board, a hangboard at home) and which days you can train. Climbing goes first, on the days with a wall; hard finger days follow rest; strength fits around them.

  • Your own fixed sessions stay on their day
  • Plan my week: move or swap any session, see the week before it saves
  • Week or month view, each day marked done, moved or missed
The plan’s month: November with each day coloured by its session and marked done or not sorted, today circled.

3Every session says what, how much and why

A warm-up for the kind of day, the main work with its dose (sets, seconds, rest, how much to leave in the tank), and extras. Swap an exercise for another that does the same job with your kit.

  • Your own warm-ups, on the days you choose
  • Technique drills on easy days
  • Sessions fit the time you have
A day from the month: Thursday 12 November, a strength session with its warm-up, lock-off holds and pike push-ups, each with its dose.

4A timer that learns, with or without a load cell

Hangs, repeaters and rests counted out with sound and vibration. After each set say what you had left; your max and next loads update. With a Tindeq, Force Board or Weiheng, each hang starts when you pull and a live bar holds you to the load.

  • Per hand: one-arm work and tests each side
  • Rate of force, history and export with a load cell
  • Music ducks for the cues
The hang timer: 4 seconds left, 72.6 kg on the load cell, inside the target band.

5Missed sessions, rough weeks, time away

Every day is marked: done, something else, moved, skipped or missed. The morning after a session with nothing logged, one nudge asks what happened, and the plan moves what it sensibly can. A lost week, or coming back after a gap, gets its own choices.

  • Hard days move only where your fingers are ready; easy days don’t stack
  • Sessions not sorted in a week count as missed, and can be changed later
  • Rough week, ill, or away: dial back and ease back in
What happens: your week adjusted. Wednesday’s moderate climbing counted as done; Monday’s hard finger day dropped, as there’s no room this week without crowding the hard days.

6Tests, and where you stand

Short benchmark tests (max hang, pull-up, grip types) set your loads and show your strength next to climbers at your grade and your goal grade, from published data. The deload weeks are the good weeks to retest.

  • The biggest gap is what the plan works on first
  • Grip tests compare with your own max hang
  • Bands and percentiles, not a single score
Where you stand: your finger and pulling strength against climbers at V5 and V7, finger strength the biggest gap.

7Progress and Log

Log shows this week planned against done (climbing minutes, finger days, strength sets, hang time, load) and everything you did. Progress shows your loads and tests over time and your sends by grade.

  • Days you marked done without sets count as planned
  • Climbing you log counts in the week, so hard days stay apart
  • A weekly digest: what you did, what changes next week

8Boards, through Boardlordz

A planned board session goes to Boardlordz on your Kilter, Tension or MoonBoard with problems at the right grade; what you send comes back into your week.

  • Board or boulders: you choose how much
  • Your board grade, learned from your sends

9Reminders that know when to stop

The morning after an unlogged session, at most one a day and quiet after three ignored. Optional reminders on session days at a time you choose, and one after a week away.

  • Set them in You › Notifications

10Your data, and your fingers

Export everything or delete your account any time. Prøva is for over-18s, unless a coach invites you with a parent’s consent. It isn’t medical advice: tell it about pain and the plan backs off, but an injury needs a physio.

  • Starts from the research, then learns from you
Read Prøva Research →

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